![]() ![]() So I went up into the attic and dug through the boxes and finally found it to move forward on the project. About 10 years ago I bought one for a Mazda Protégé to replace the OEM one on my NA Miata. After some searching on Ebay, and not liking the prices, it hit me that I already had a valve cover. This is not a 100% original idea, but all the ones that I found were made from a stamped steel piece from a typical V8. My idea was to build a desk lamp using a valve cover. I had an idea of something to build, but wanted to be sure he was open to the idea first, so I gave him a call and he was excited about it. With that in mind, I remembered that my friend has an insurance business and his office is decorated with various automotive stuff. The boss is not going to let that kind of stuff in the house, and out my the shop it wouldn't get much exposure. ![]() I've had a few ideas, but I didn't want to build something that wouldn't be ever seen or used. There's also the possibility of using the locking nut that came with the switch, but attempting to get it threaded onto the switch threads deep inside that hole would require more patience and a steadier hand than I possess.For a while now I have been wanting to build a piece of furniture from some combination of automotive parts. You'll need something there to prevent the switch from spinning, but maybe something like plumbers putty pressed firmly into place would work and still be removable later. If you use epoxy, let it dry overnight.Īttention: If you ever want to be able to disassemble the valve, omit the epoxy or glue on the wire side of the switch. Be careful to not put so much in, or tip the valve, so that anything gets into the upper valve area. Go ahead and attach the handle onto the stem at this point and hold the wires in place so the whole switch isn't trying to rotate inside the valve.ĭrip hot glue or use your screwdriver to spread some epoxy inside the valve where the wires come out to prevent the knob from spinning inside the valve and causing the wires to twist. With the switch and stem in place, thread the bonnet nut on far enough to hold, but not so far that it starts to bind on the knob. Dremel with a brass brush or something else that can smooth burrs from drilling.Hot glue gun or epoxy (JB Weld recommended).Drill press and bits suitable for brass, or some other way to remove threads from inside a piece (step 6).A vice will be helpful in removing the bonnet nut.Adjustable wrench or several sizes of box wrenches.Test other brands to see if they fit together as well. This switch fits inside this valve almost perfectly. If you don't mind using a 3/4" valve, it will all fit much easier, but might need some epoxy holding everything in place. You need the kind pictured in the cutaway where the water enters, goes through a vertical hole and out the other side. ![]() As I write this, I can't find either on the Lowes website, but I know they are a typically stocked item. The water valve was a stocked item at a local Ace Hardware for about $9 but Lowes has them too. It cycles through on/off in a clockwise direction each quarter turn. This switch can handle 3 amps at 120V or 5 amps at 12V. I later saw that Lowes has a very similar switch that appears to be the same size for just over $3. I found the switch at and picked it up at a local facility near me for $6.25. For my water valve light switch I used a Mueller Industries, Proline 1/2" shut off valve (105-003NL) and a Carling Technologies R-135-BL rotary switch. ![]()
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